Yosemite YEBlog @ yexplore.com

I recently returned from a long day and weekend in Yosemite on Saturday after hiking the Mist Trail to Half Dome. The joy of successfully reaching the summit was somewhat tempered by the ominous sound of a helicopter overhead somewhere around 4:30 pm. We did not really see it because it was cloudy and rainy, but I turned to James (our other leader for the weekend)  and mentioned to our group that helicopter equals rescue in Yosemite. It turned out that those words were true and false at the same time. Unfortunately, there was no rescue because a hiker did not survive his fall from the cables of Half Dome at about 3:40 pm. As I write this, there is a newly rekindled debate over developing safety regulations for this day long trek. There are varying opinions from creating a quota system to requiring that all hikers clip into the line to shutting down access to the peak during bad weather conditions. Every argument has its merits, but the truth is, just as in life, there are no black and white solutions for Half Dome.  Shoes are an important part of any hike, and even some of the best shoes will fail on slick granite. It is unfortunate to see so many unprepared people attempt this hike. It is easy to question the judgment of those who put themselves in harm’s way, and many people say no one should have been out there in the first place. George C. Anderson was the first man on top after he built a very crude rope system in October 1875, and John Muir summited a few weeks later in the middle of November storms. Unless you walk in their shoes, you’re not going to know why people act the way they do. Here’s how our day unfolded.

When we arrived at the cables at around 11 am on Saturday, we had some serious decisions to make. I know people say “if it’s cloudy or raining, just turn around”, and I don’t wholly disagree with that. However, for many who venture out to the dome, there are important reasons why they’re there, and hiking 8 miles to gain 4400 feet can alter one’s decision making process. Ultimately, we all make our own difficult decisions in life and some are a lot riskier than others. I was faced with a similar situation in early May with a friend who traveled from NY to summit in worse conditions than Saturday. I told him that there was an excellent chance we’d be turning around at any time. He understood but also still wanted to proceed. During periods of rain and sleet, we roped into the cables, went up about 50 feet, and decided to turn around and try another day. Although we were prepared to continue, I believe it was the best decision to make. At 11 am on Saturday, the conditions were different than that day in May, but we were still forced to analyze our options.

Our day started at 4:30 am when the alarm in my tent started to beep. I had agreed to wake James at 4:45 so I quietly rolled up my sleeping bag and broke down my tent. Although James didn’t emerge from his tent until 5 am, he was packed up and ready to go. I knew I was going to have to skip my oatmeal, but it was a small price for camping at such an incredible spot the night before a Half Dome hike. We paid for our rewards in lactic acid as we literally ran down the trail with full packs in tow. Although it was a frantic start to such a big day, I would do it again in a heartbeat.

We met the clients on time (I might add) and we were hiking by 6:15 am. There was no need for much of an orientation because we had been prepping them for this for the last 2 days. Our group was comprised of 4 adventurists who signed up for our exclusive Tuolumne Hiker 5 day program with the O.A.R.S. rafting company.  They spent 2 days rafting on the Tuolumne River and 3 days hiking in Yosemite. We started on Thursday with an acclimatization (I’ll use that word very loosely here) hike to the top of Yosemite Falls that was equal parts taxing and rewarding. Day 2 was a recovery hike in a couple of Yosemite’s sequoia groves where we discussed the park’s ecology. We also enjoyed seeing 4 bears interacting in their natural environment before the hike even began.

Saturday’s start was typical as we jockeyed for position with several other groups up the Mist Trail to Vernal and Nevada Falls. It was cloudy all morning with glimpses of sun, and we knew the conditions would not be ideal. In fact, the weather reports all week pointed to possible trouble for this day and there’s no denying it. As an experienced hiker and guide, I can only say that it is worth going to the cables for a look in most conditions at this time of year excluding downpours of rain and lightning. Since the weather changes so rapidly during these weather episodes, that was exactly our plan. There was no thunder or lightning at all on Saturday which made every decision that much more difficult because there was no definitive answer until later in the afternoon.

We continued our slog through the forest and arrived at the final switchbacks before the Sub Dome before the clouds really rolled in. Our group was well prepared with gear and footwear so we endured. We trekked with a little more urgency as we felt our window slowly closing. At that time, we had split into 2 separate groups led by James and me. We stepped onto the Hammer Dome and slowly pushed our way through thicker clouds. Clouds Rest was aptly named on that day and most of the Clark Range was obscured. Each of those peaks (except Starr King) are at least 1000 feet above our destination, but to be honest, our prospects were lessening. One member of our group decided he would go no further and picked a spot to rest while he waited for us.

Once my group arrived at the saddle, we were approached by James who said he saw “snow and rain on the Buena Vista Crest, and we should move quickly if we wanted to get to the top.” We ate our last quick bite of energy, grabbed our gloves, and made our way onto the cables. Once again I asked if anyone wanted to turn around, and everyone agreed to make the attempt. There was a major delay as many on the summit decided to come down the cables at that moment. We were at the back end of the early crowd and there was a major logjam. To make matters worse, there was a pause in the line to allow the SAR crew an opportunity to repair a section on the upper portion of the cables. It also should be noted that the SAR team did not offer any blanket warning about the dangers at that time which led many to remain confident. After over a 30 minute delay, our line began to move more freely. This was not before it began to rain slightly and even briefly snow and hail. The granite was dry at that point in time, and I was prepared to turn my group around at any moment. I thought back to July 1997 when I ascended Mt. Rainier.

Half Dome is an incredible endurance hike, but it pales in comparison to Rainier.  You don’t find yourself at 14,411 feet very often and you want to maximize your effort when put in the situation so you take on a different character altogether. We had check points every thousand feet or so where our guides would ask if people were okay to continue. I remember telling myself there was no way I was opting out. We were sitting at about 13,500 feet or less than 1000 feet from the summit when we were parked in a white out. We were all fixed in our line and our leader, Phil Ershler, was forced to make a decision that day. Although it was July, snow was common on Rainier at that time of year. In fact, no group had reached the peak for the past couple of days because of weather. Right before the determination was made to turn around, we received a break in the clouds and had a brief window of opportunity to continue. Invigorated by the experience (and the rest), we continued on and reached the summit crater. Although visibility was extremely low, the sense of accomplishment was unmatched. Although we only spent a few minutes on top and could see virtually nothing, it was one of the best feelings of my life. The power of emotion that engulfed my entire being was and remains indescribable.

Back on the cables, the line began to move and the clouds began to break. I informed my group that we would basically go up, touch the rock, and then come back down before any real rain began to fall. Did I know that the sky wouldn’t open up at any moment? Of course not, but it was a risk we were all comfortable taking. Fortunately, there wasn’t another drop until we were almost completely off the cables. We all high fived at the top and took a collective sigh of relief as we sheepishly knew we were very fortunate to make it up without any real danger. James and I were quietly happy that we were not forced to make a decision to turn back. We were socked in for about 10 to 15 minutes but did get some breaks in the clouds. We even basked in some sun rays for brief moments during the unpredictable pattern of weather.

We decided not to tempt fate much longer and returned down a dense queue of hikers. The weather worsened as we made it down to the saddle and decided to hurriedly scamper off the Hammer Dome. As fate would have it, the intensity of rainfall increased during the next segment of our descent. We looked at a few hikers in amazement that they would continue to go forward. I began warning people of the dangers of granite when it is wet. Were we lucky? You bet. Were we reckless? I don’t think so. We were led by 2 very experienced guides, were well prepared with gear, and we made rational decisions with safe techniques. Some will say we were careless because the weather report and the clouds, but I would retort by stating we were prepared to turn around at any moment. In fact, I made that exact decision a month prior. The rest of our day moved along as planned until we heard that familiar echo along the canyon walls. One member of our group said he saw something dangling from one of the helos later in the day. In retrospect, it was one of the rescuers making his way to a spot just below the saddle. We moved more carefully down the wet granite steps of the Mist Trail and said our goodbyes without knowing the fate of one unfortunate hiker.

I have witnessed fellow adventurists from all walks of life who are drawn to the compelling energy that emanates from Half Dome. Many friends, clients, and stranger alike have shared their stories during and after their life altering experience: first timers, milestoners (for 40, 50… year olds) honeymooners, bucket listers, cancer survivors, etc. This is their Rainier, Whitney, Everest; you name it. I was on the dome last year and shared the beat when Kelly Perkins climbed the face with her transplanted heart. I’ve seen grown women and men break down and cry at the last pole of the cables. I’ve seen 9 year olds make it. I am also continuously inpsired by  people in their 70s who have done it at least one time for every year they’ve been alive. This block of granite (actually granodiorite)  represents so many things to so many people that it would be impossible to explain. On Saturday one client stated “I’m glad I don’t have to do that again” while another relished his next opportunity to make it back. The dome has its own life force that intimidates and entices at the same time. Although I have reached the summit several times in the last few years, I have learned to take nothing for granted. Despite the tragic events that occur, people are going to always be drawn to Half Dome.  95% of Yosemite is designated wilderness and because so many venture out to attempt this hike, some people lose sight of that. I always treat it as such and will continue to make my way up the cables in all seasons while practicing safety on every trip whether I am alone or with clients who depend on me to enhance their experience. People are faced with risks and dangers in every aspect of their lives. Where one person sees danger another seeks opportunity for adventure. Ultimately, we all make our own decisions.